Complete Guide to Montmartre

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When I was planning our trip to Paris, I had a coworker approach me and advise “You have to go to Montmartre. It is this cute artist’s neighborhood that is so far away from all the touristy stuff.” She was not entirely correct. Montmartre used to be an unknown, authentic area where artists and bohemians would flock. That old-world charm has drawn thousands of visitors each day, making it one of the busiest areas of Paris.

Despite the droves of people, Montmartre remains one of the best neighborhoods to experience some Parisian history. This area used to be a haven for artists, poets, and writers. Legends such as Van Gogh, Picasso, Josephine Baker, and Claude Debussy all frequented and even lived in the Montmartre area back when it was known for affordable rent and cheap wine. Much of the bohemian artist charm can still be found throughout the neighborhood if you look past the throngs of people and trinket shops.

Here are my tips on what to see and do in the area to get the most out of this iconic neighborhood and to escape the crowds.

Tips for Visiting Montmartre

Set Realistic Expectations

In case you couldn’t tell from my above statements, this is a popular area for tourists. Many people get caught up in romantic ideas about what Montmartre (and all of Paris for that matter) will be like and are sorely disappointed when they arrive. Most people expect an off the beaten path, untouched gem that this bohemian haven once was and are met with selfie sticks and huskers trying to hand out their mixtapes. You can still find that magic (I’ll get into that below) but you just have to know where to look for it.

Get There Early

You can avoid the crowds by arriving early in the AM. Because Montmartre is a neighborhood, there is no open time like a museum (though obviously if you want to tour the Sacré-Cœur or dine in the Moulin de la Galette, you will be a little restricted). You can go as early as sunrise and get your exploring in sans crowds.

Wear your best walking shoes

Montmartre is HILLY. Like hilly enough to give Pittsburgh a run for it’s money. And mostly cobblestoned. This is not the day for your finest high heels. I wouldn’t advise against bringing a water bottle too if it’s going to be a warm day.

Be aware

Because of the uptick in tourists, there has also been an uptick in pickpockets and scammers. This area is particularly known for common tourist scams, so read up and know when someone is being too friendly!

Get lost

While the main attractions of this area such as the Sacré-Cœur and the Maison Rose are gorgeous, the real beauty is found away from the tourist areas and in the side streets of the neighborhood where people actually live their lives. I was personally amazed by the diversity of architecture down the quiet streets. Exploring the neighborhood and getting away from the crowds is truly where I found the charm and beauty of this area.

Eat elsewhere

Because of the popularity of this area, I’d stay away from most eateries. You will mostly find overpriced meals with mediocre flavor catering mostly to tourists. If you want a more authentic French dining experience, I’d wait until you are in another neighborhood.

Go on an off day

Saturdays and Sundays are always busy days no matter where you are, but we made the mistake of visiting Montmartre on a bank holiday which would have been equivalent to double the weekend crowd! Why? Most of the museums and iconic Paris attractions are closed on bank holidays so the tourists (including us) have less options of what to do and see. Montmartre is free and open because it’s a neighborhood, therefore, super-duper crowded on days like that. So check the calendar before you go and pick like a random Wednesday if you’re able to.

What to do and see

The Moulin Rouge

If you’re a fan of the movie/musical, be sure to catch a glimpse of this iconic building on the Boulevard de Clichy. Their famous cabaret and review performances still happen there almost every night, if that’s the kind of activity that floats your boat.

Sacré-Cœur

This Catholic Basilica sits on top of the highest point in Paris, making it a great spot to get a great view. Again, this is the most popular spot for pickpockets and scammers, so stay aware! You can also tour inside the building and go to the top of the dome.

The Sinking House

Okay so this was a site that we read about but TOTALLY MISSED when we actually visited. I’m not sure how we forgot to put it on our itinerary, especially since it is right next to Sacre Couer! The Sinking House is a popular photo spot/optical illusion. Sorry to disappoint, but it is actually a normal building on a super steep hill (remember those hills I mentioned?!) If you turn a photo of it (or your head) sideways you can make the hill appear level and the house appear sideways. It’s cute and fun and I for sure want to see it next time we visit.

Maison Rose

This iconic cafe has actually been closed for renovations for some time, but you can still snap a photo of the iconic pink exterior.

Place du Tetre

I was debating whether or not to include this, but it is part of the Montmartre experience, despite my dislike for it. The Place du Tetre is a cobblestone square that used to be known for quaint cafes and upcoming artists selling their works in the center. The reason I didn’t like it was a. Because it was the most crowded area. Like didn’t have room to move my arms crowded and b. Because most of the artists did not impress. There were plenty of characturists like one would see in a cheap theme park and I read a tip before we went that most of the paintings of idyllic Paris scenery are actually mass-produced and imported. The permits to make and sell art in this square are very strict, so I’m not sure how these people slip past. Perhaps they used to create authentic art but found it to be cheaper and easier to sell something massed produced to the masses who would not know otherwise. It’s really a disservice to the few true artists who remain and the history this area used to have for catering to them. Because it was so jam-packed, I was too overwhelmed to actually take time and observe which art was worth purchasing and left empty-handed and mentally disheveled. Because most of the restaurants cater to one-time, tourist customers, their menus were filled with overpriced, underwhelming food. Not exactly the authentic Parisian experience Montmartre used to be known for. I mean there is a Starbucks there if you’re wondering how authentic this area is. I might recommend strolling through if it’s not too crowded just to see a place so historic, but definitely not somewhere I wanted to stick around.

Moulin de la Galette

A classic restaurant located at the base of one of Paris’ remaining windmills. This place was famously captured by Renoir in his 1876 painting “Dance at the Moulin de la Galette”. This may be my one exception to my “don’t eat in Montmartre rule” because they have kept the menu pretty authentic, despite most of their patrons being out of towners. We had planned to dine here, but the wait time was way too long. It was still great to see the beautiful and iconic building as we passed by. If it’s on your “must eat list” be prepared for a wait and for crowds!

The Wall of Love

A beautiful mural filled with the words “I love you” in a bunch of languages. It’s an iconic photo spot and we had to push through crowds of people to even see it up close. Again, my go to tip of getting there early.

Le Consulat

Another iconic Montmartre Cafe! Much like the rest of the buildings in Montmartre, this cafe has been here for a while and was a favorite spot of many iconic artists, writers, and poets. This was another spot we didn’t make it to.

Musée de Montmartre

We had so many museums packed into our trip, that we didn’t have time to make it to this one. If the history and culture of Montmartre intrigues you, this is a great place to get all the details.

Houses and Buildings

This goes along with my “get lost” tip. While the main attractions of Montmartre are crowded, the side streets are will you will find the old world charm that has drawn so many to this area through the years. The architecture is beautiful and varied and worth taking an afternoon to explore. As with anywhere you travel, be mindful that people live in this area and don’t do anything disrespectful to their homes and spaces.

So there is my complete recap of what to do in Montmartre. I don’t know if I will want to go back there on my next Paris visit. As I mentioned above, it was a bit too touristy for my taste and there is so much more of Paris to explore it doesn’t seem right to go back to a place I just felt was “meh”. If you’ve ever visited Montmartre, leave me a comment below and let me know if you loved it or felt like I did. I’d love to hear different perspectives from people who went during off-peak times and with less crowds.