Visiting the Musse de l’Orangerie

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If you read my recap of what we did on our first visit to Paris, then you know one of my highlights from the trip was visiting the Musse de l’Orangerie. It is a small museum located in the southwest corner of the Jardin des Tuileries and features many 20th century artworks, the most impressive being 8 enormous Monet Water Lily canvases in two bright, light rooms.

The Basics

The Musse de l’Orangerie was built in 1852 originally as a shelter for the orange trees of the Tuileries Garden. It has undergone many renovations throughout it’s life, the most notable being the design of the oval rooms. Monet himself had a hand in the design of these two rooms, as he was in the process of creating his giant Water Lilies Canvases and wanted them showcased in bright and airy spaces. The spaces were opened in 1927 a few months after he died.

Address: Jardin des Tuileries, Palace de la Concorde, 75001 Paris

Metro: Concorde Station

Touring Hours: 9am to 6pm except for Tuesdays.

Full price standard admission: €9. Children under 18 and EU students (with proof) are admitted for free!

Guided Tours: €6. These only happen twice a week, so check their website for the latest availability.

You can also buy a combined ticket for the l’Orangerie and the Musse d’Orsay for €18 if you are visiting the two on the same day. We visited on seperate days, or else we totally would have taken advantage of this!

Accessibility: Yes - ramps and elevators are present. Audio guides are available as well.

Just to note - according to their website, there is a bit of renovation going on and some rooms/exhibits are closed on certain dates from now through some time in 2020. I always advise to check a website before planning a visit, but this time especially!

The Water Lilies

The one word I would use to describe this museum is peaceful. Appropriately so since this museum was envisioned by Monet himself as a place where the people of Paris could find peace after the First World War. The two main rooms are tranquil - using an oval shape and bare white walls to showcase some of Monet’s finest work. We intended to visit Monet’s Gardens in Giverny the day before to see the real life scenery that so often inspired him. But a strike with the trains prevented us from making that possible. It’s on the list for next time.

Many blogs and travel guides advised - if you have limited time visit, the d’Orsay over the l’Orangerie. I think because the Orsay is larger and has more to see. Fortunately, we had plenty of time because we spent a whole seven days in Paris, so we got to experience both. But if you are crunched for time, I would pick this one. Maybe it’s because I grew up with a mother who had a love for art history but in particular Monet. But I still felt like this museum had so much to offer and the main attraction - the Water Lilies, was so unique and spectacular, it was worth seeing. We also visited the Louvre on this trip and in my opinion the Louvre and the Orsay felt more comparable - there was a lot of variety in the artworks it was almost overwhelming. The Orsay also offered many Monet’s but the scale and beauty of the 8 canvases of the l’Orangerie was awe-inspiring. It was a moment of peace in a city and trip that can be very rushed to fit it all in.

The Jean Walter-Paul Guillaume Collection

There is more to the museum than just the two oval rooms. The basement contains both special and permanent exhibits and houses many famous works including those by Paul Cezanne, Pablo Picasso, and Henri Matisse. At the time of writing this (Nov 2019) the museum is undergoing some renovations through 2020 and certain sections are closed on certain dates. The galleries in the lower level seemed to be affected most by these closure, so please be sure to check their website before planning your visit.

So what are my top tips for visiting this beautiful place?

Get there early

We arrived at the museum about 10 minutes before they opened and there were already at least 15 people waiting in line. As I mentioned, one of my favorite things about this museum was how peaceful it was. I don’t imagine it’d be peaceful when it is packed. The lack of crowds allowed us take in the serenity of the two rooms and even grab seats on the nearly empty benches in the middle to take it all in. Another way to ensure a lovely visit (and one of my favorite general travel tips) is to travel in off peak times if you’re able. We went to Paris at the end of April/beginning of May and not only was it cheaper than a mid-July trip, but it also reduced the crowds we encountered at some of Paris’ most popular spots including this one. I know this is not always possible when your vacation days and budget are limited, but that’s why getting there early helps too.

2. Go to the Water Lily Rooms first, then read about them

Once you’ve purchased and scanned your ticket at the Musse de l’Orangerie, you will see a ramp/ corridor leading to the Water Lily Rooms. Along that ramp is facts about the building and the paintings. If you arrived when the doors opened like us, skip those and go to the rooms first. Not only were we able to snag a number of photos without people in them, but we were also able to truly enjoy the space without the distraction of too many other tourists. We tried to keep our noise and photo taking to a minimum in order to not disturb anyone else who had come to enjoy the artwork. Once we’d gotten our fill of water lilies, then we went back to learn all the cool facts. If you are not able to arrive at opening, feel free to do it in whatever order you see fit, as there will be people in the rooms either way.

3. Take your time

This museum is small and Paris has so much to see, so you may be tempted to just blow through this museum as fast as possible. Don’t. The main goal of the building was to be a peaceful space. Rushing through isn’t peaceful. Take a seat, stare at the art and don’t worry about posting your photos online until after you leave. Pause. Reflect. Meditate if you must. I promise you’ll enjoy the breather.

4. Don’t skip the other exhibits

Again, Paris has so much to see so it is tempting to just see the Water Lilies then leave. Please don’t! This museum may be small, but it houses so many other great artworks that are worth sticking around to see! Your 8th grade art teacher will thank you for taking the time to look at the Picasso and all the other great works.

Overall, this was my second favorite part of our Paris trip (other than the Opera House). As I mentioned before, my mother is a huge fan of Monet and I felt myself thinking throughout our visit that I wished she was there. Perhaps a girls trip to Paris is in order.